– Left Heidelberg in the cars for Mayenee. From the latter place took
a carriage for Bingen on the Rhine. Stayed all night there and left the
next morning, Aug. 2, for Cologne. Arrived at 2 o’clock – weather
rainy. Had a very pleasant trip down the river. The country on either side
beautiful; it is well cultivated, vines principally attended to. We saw
some very pretty villages; also numbers of castles and ruins of towers and
castles. The seven mountains are much higher than the surrounding hills,
a fine view from Mt. Ebrenslin.
Aug. 3 – Left Cologne for Eisenach via Cassel. At the latter place we stopped a few hours; took a drive over the town; visited the Antgarten, where we saw some beautiful trees. Left for Eisenach at half past nine and arrived there at twelve.
Aug. 4 – After breakfast this morning walked up to the castle of Wartbury where Luther was imprisoned. It is situated on a high hill about 600 ft. a half hours walk. When we got up after viewing the country all around, we were conducted by the guide through castle now belonging to the Duke of Saxe Weimer. The banqueting hall was very handsome. After this we went into Luther’s room; saw a portrait of his father and mother and also one of himself with several of the reformers. We saw his table, his beer mug, with other things. The country all around Eisenach is beautiful. On descending, we walked all through the town. The women dress very singularly, strange looking bead dresses and very full cloaks with ruffles made of calico. Numbers of men carry wicker baskets strapped across their shoulders.
Left Eisenach and arrived at Wiltenburg at night.
Aug. 5 – First saw bronze statues of Luther and Melanethon in the market place, after which we went to the Stadt Church, where we heard service in German. The organ and music were very good. There were some curious paintings representing Luther and Melanethon as officiating. Luther is preaching to a congregation. After this, we were conducted by two ladies to Luther’s house, in the old University buildings formed out of the Ancient Augustine Convent, where he lived after his marriage, still remains unaltered. On one side of it is a stone doorway, with seats on either side of it, given to Luther by his wife. We were shown up stairs into an ante room where were full length picture of the Electors of Saxony. In another room we saw the table at which he wrote; his stove made according to his own directions, with peculiar devices; his professor chair and beer mug. Over one of the doors is the autograph of Peter the Great in chalk; is covered with glass to protect it. We also saw Melanethons house. After this visit took our bags and changed our lodging to the Hotel London, which was much cleaner in every way than where we first stopped. The landlord, a perfect Falstaff in appearance, was extremely attentive to us at the table, helping us to wine from his own bottle, etc. We had a real German dinner, soup seasoned with cinnamon, boiled beef with cauliflower, meal balls and turnips; then we had a batter pudding, after which roast duck with cucumbers and stewed currants; then bread and butter and some very strong cheese, for which the landlord motioned me to wait. Luther’s seal heart _______ and cross.
In the Schless Church we saw the bronze tablet of Luther and Melanethon, which mark their graves. It was to the doors of this Church that Luther nailed his ninety-five theses. They were burnt by the French and are now replaced by doors of bronze with the theses engraved on them. In this Church we saw the tombs of Frederick the Wise and John the Steadfast, Electors of Saxony and friends of Luther and the Reformation.
We have met with only three persons here who speak English and that indifferently. By signs and the few German words we know, we make our wants known. These persons were missionaries. One of them lives in Berlin. Our Hotel is nearly opposite to the church in which Luther is buried. There are eleven Locust trees in front of this Church. It is very plain inside, but has a fine organ, as have all the German Churches in which we have been. In my room is a glass chamber, the first I ever saw.