July 29 – Sunday – There being no protestant service in English, we spent a portion of the morning in visiting two churched, one the Cathedral, which with its noble spire is said to be the highest edifice in the world. The great object of interest in the interior of the church is the great clock, which is indeed a wonder. It has puppet figures representing the four different ages of life and striking the quarters. When the hour is struck, a cupid angel strikes a bell, another turns an hour glass. Above these is an image of the Savior and at the hour of noon figures of the twelve apostles pass, bowing before him; he lifts his hand to bless them and during that time a cock whose motions and voice imitate nature flaps his wings and crows three times. The houses here are very curiously constructed, many of them four or five stories in height, with very peaked roofs, with dormor windows on them, four or five, one above the other, giving the appearance of five other stories.
In the Church of St. Thomas (Protestant Lutheran) is a monument erected to the memory of Marshal Saxe by Louis XV. It is a masterpiece of sculpture, representing the Gen. descending to the grave, while France, represented by a female figure endeavors to detain him and at the same time to stay the threatening advance of death. We also saw here the bodies of a Count of Nassau ad his daughter, showing how wonderfully perfect flesh and clothes have been preserved after the lapse of more than a century, lying in the same position in which they were embalmed. The beadle who showed us the clock in the Cathedral was very amusing.
July 30 – Left Strassburg in the cars for Baden Baden. Arrived in a few hours and spent the afternoon and night there; took a carriage and drove upon the hill to see the old castle, a fine old ruin. I saw several aeolian harps for the first time. The rooms of the new Schloss were handsomely furnished. Saw the dungeons where prisoners were once tortured. There are many beautiful walks here. At night we walked through the gambling saloons, where we saw the young and aged playing at the game of rouge-et-noir.
July 31 – Left Baden Baden at ten
o’clock and arrived at Heidelberg 12 A.M. a real rainy day. Rode
and walked about an hour, after which we spent the afternoon sewing.