In the
Palace Rospigliosi, saw Aurora by Guido, one of the most celebrated frescoes
in Rome. Aurora is represented scattering flowers before the chariot of
the Sun, drawn by four piebald horses. Seven female figures is the most
graceful section surround the chariot and typify the advance of the hours.
We drove all through the Villa Pampili Doria, one
of the most extensive in Rome. The grounds are beautifully laid out, has
numerous fountains and a large lake with swans swimming about. There are
many avenues of various kinds of trees – the most noticeable are
the lefty umbrella pines. In 1842 the grounds were occupied by the republican
troops of Garibaldi, who maintained his position here for many weeks against
the whole of the French army. Some portions of the ______ suffered during
these operations, but have since been completely restored. We saw marks
all along the city walls of holes and where breaches had been made during
the contest.
Saw the columns of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus and
of Trajan. They are covered with bas reliefs. One has a statue of St.
Paul on the summit and the other one of St. Peter.
The obelisks with which the Popes have decorated
the city were brought by the Emperors from Egypt. There are 11 in Rome,
one in the Piazza del Popolo, Monto Pincio, Vatican, Lateraco, etc., are
covered with hieroglyphics. The Arches of Titus, Constantine and Septimus
are very beautiful – covered with bas relief.
We visited the baths of Titus, Diocletian and Carocella.
The site of those of Diocletian is occupied by two convents with gardens
and the public granaries and prisons. The ruins of those of Titus and
Carcoalla are all under ground. They are a series of chambers of unknown
extent. They give an example of Roman magnificence. The wall and ceiling
have been beautifully frescoed and stuccoed, as the remains still show.
The frescoes in the baths of Titus are the most perfect specimens of ancient
paintings which have been preserved in Rome. They represent flowers, birds
and animals, coats of arms. The remains of the mosaic roof and pavements
of the baths of Carcoalla were very rich. Those baths were said to accommodate
1600 bathers at a time. They are nearly a mile in circuit and are the
most perfect in Rome. The ruins of the Parthenon were very interesting.
There is now a ________ in it. The top of the dome is open so that it
is exposed to rain, and the Tiber also rises in it several feet at times.
Notwithstanding this, it is pretty well preserved. Here we saw the Tomb
of Raphael.
The ruins of the Palace of the Caesars were very
interesting. The site of its circus is now all cultivated, with gardens,
etc. The floor of the dining halls was paved with the most beautiful marbles,
some still remaining in their original places. Saw many beautiful specimens
of statuary and columns. The Government is excavating it. Saw many large
chambers, baths, etc.
June 17th – Went to see the Tarpean Rock. Went to see the Hamestine
prison where St. Paul and St. Peter were said to have been imprisoned.
Drank water from a well in it which is said to have come in a miraculous
manner.
The Academy of St. Luke, in which gallery we saw several good paintings,
portraits of Popes, The Tomb of Scopio and Pompey’s pillars, the
Arch of Druans and Catacombs of St. Calisto. These wonderful subterranean
passages are said to extend as far as Coviltro Procchia. They were once
the hiding place of the early christians. They were also used as tombs
– some of the popes were buried in them. Then the stable of Caracalla
and the circus of Romulus, the triumphal arch of which is very beautiful.
From here we rode a long distance on the Apian Way, on either side of
which we saw the remains of numbers of tombs, among which were those of
Cicillia, Metella, Servia, Seneca, the Horatio and Curatio, the Cotta
family, etc.
Then came the Temple of Bacchus and the Sacred Wood, sacred to the nymphs,
the fountain of Aegerica.
The comumbariums were singular burying places for the poorer classes,
niches like pigeon holes in a chamber partly under ground. The ashes were
put in arms and those placed in the niches. Were generally near the tombs
of the rich.
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