May 28th
– Took an omnibus for Schoenbrunn, one of the palaces of the present
Emperor. We were not conducted through it as he was then residing there,
but had a most delightful walk through the grounds which are very artistically
arranged – avenues of linden trees trimmed on either side so as
to form a wall about eight or ten feet in diameter. In the center and
at the corners were statues, in niches formed by the trees. There are
thirty-two of these in marble.
From the platform, we had a fine view of the grounds
and of Vienna. In a retired portion of the grounds is an imitation of
a Roman ruin, an obelisk and a beautiful fountain which gave the name
of Schoenbrunn to the palace.
From Schoenbrunn we rode through an avenue of linden
trees three miles in length to Saxonbourg, the Imperial country coat.
There is nothing remarkable in the palace, but the park is beautiful.
In the centre of it is a lake, in the midst of which is a castle constructed
after the manner of one in the Tyrol. It is rich in objects of the middle
age, such as armor, arms of war of the peasants. One room was the copy
of a torture chamber. In the saloon of the Hapsburgs were seventeen statues
from Rudolph I to Charles VI and Marie Theresa. In the Throne Room we
saw some paintings – the Crowning of Francis II 1702 and the festival
which followed in the _______ de Frankfort. The cathedral of St. Stephens
is the most important edifice in Vienna. It was founded in 114_. It is
in the best Gothic style. The tower is 110 meters in height. One has an
extended view from it and above all an excellent panorama of the battle
fields of Leban, Magram, Aspern and Caoling. In the subterranean vaults
of the church of Capuchius, are the tombs of the Emperors. In one corner
we saw the tomb of Napoleon II and that of his mother, Maria Louisa, Archduchess
of Austria.
In the Church of the Augustus we saw the mausoleum
of the Archduchess Marie Christine, daughter of the Empress Maria Theresa.
It is executed in marble by Carona. In the Loretta Chapel of this Church
are the hearts of the Imperial family enclosed in silver urns containing
spirits.
We were much entertained by our visit to the upper
and lower Belvedere. In the latter is one of the most celebrated collections
of arms and suites of armor; also numbers of rarities. It was taken from
Innsbruck by the Archduke Ferdinand of Tyrol and transferred to Vienna
in 1806. We saw the bows and arrows and tomahawks of Montezuma some in
suits of mail; some Turkish arms; coats of mail of the Tyrol; the suit
worn by Philip II of Spain; in the portrait room that of Queen Elizabeth
of England; one of Mary, Queen of Scotts, Kings and Queens of Spain and
other countries in the curiosity rooms; a chess board made in ____; fine
specimens of minerals, coral, etc., varieties of carved work.
After thus we went to the Imperial Riding School.
It is a very handsome building. There are two galleries on either side
for spectators and the Empress and royal ladies ride on a prepared floor
in the center.
I forgot to speak of the gallery of paintings in
the upper Belvedere. It is one of the finest in Europe. There we saw some
of Ruben Raphael’s finest works; also some of Murillo’s. His
St. John dressed in camel’s hair holding a staff was very good.
The face reminded me of the Spanish children, whose beautiful features
he had as copies.
Left Vienna on the first of June for Trieste. Our
route lay over the _______ and ______ Alps. The pass of the first was
grand. We passed over fifteen viaducts and through fifteen tunnels, some
of which were very long. This is said to be the finest piece of railroad
engineering in Europe. The country was picturesque – beyond description.
The caves, hills and mountains were covered with evergreens, pines, birch,
balsam fir, etc., these giving them still more pointed shape. Every now
and then we would see ruined castles, perched on the summit of these hills,
dating back to the middle ages. They appeared inaccessible and one could
imagine romantic adventures occurring there. The valleys were well cultivated
everywhere practicable. We notice women working everywhere in the fields.
We met several trains loaded with soldiers.
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