May 21st
– This morning we were awakened at three o’clock to change
steamers. After dressing in the greatest haste we did not go aboard for
several hours. Of course, we were in no very amiable mood. We went aboard
a small steamer far as Saxons – passed through the iron gate, a
noble. The scenery was so beautiful that we stood on deck during the whole
passage in the midst of the cold wind. Upon reaching the Austrian frontier
our trunks were examined. We were not subjected to any duty, however,
thanks to good packing.
The scenery today has been perfectly grand. The
weather was too cold and windy to be on deck, but I could see very well
from the windows on each side. I went out twice to see the best portion
of the views – it was one continuation of hills and high bluffs
interacting each other. It would appear sometimes as if there was no possible
outlet for the river, as in looking ahead of the boat we had hills before
us and on each side they were all heavily wooded. On some we saw forts
and towers romantically situated, commanding the river.
We passed Somendria in the afternoon. This is quite
a town prettily situated on the river bank, the front of which is obscured
from view by an old wall with seven or eight towers. We reached Belgrade
about ten o’clock. Got a glimpse of its position and its fortress;
also saw the mouth of the river.
May 22nd – Just six months from home. The views today have not
been very interesting. The country is thickly wooded with willows and
other trees. It is cultivated in many places, the back country generally
rolling. The banks are low. In many places the river looks like the Mississippi.
We see cords of wood piled up all along; also a number of canoes and wigwams
and fish nets. I have seen for the first time stream mills in the river,
which appear to be a house built in the river connected with a wheel in
the center of a boat, which is turned by the current of the river. This
being very rapid, the color of the water resembles our own river.
May 23rd – Arrived at Perth, the capital of Hungary. Had a very
interesting day spent in sight seeing – first crossed the river
on the suspension bridge, which is the finest one in Europe. Military
teams were crossing. There was a great deal of activity here. Saw several
companies of soldiers passing along the streets. The draft horses here
are very large and noble looking. We walked up the hill t the Queen’s
palace, where we were admitted into the garden. The views from here of
the river and city were very fine. From here we went to the Jewish temple
where we saw a young lady married under a canopy. During the ceremony
one of the Rabbi’s sung, accompanied by a choir of small boys dressed
in black gowns with large white collars. This was the handsomest Jewish
church I ever saw.
From the church we went to the academy to see Prince Eetehaziks gallery
of paintings. Here we saw some very good pictures – some amusing
German scenes.
Forth is a flourishing city. Its streets are regular. It has a number
of fine looking buildings. Its general appearance is very good.
May 24th – Changed from the boat we took at Perth to a smaller
boat which carried us up the canal to Vienna. We had rather a tedious
day. The views for a portion of the time were very pretty. Almost all
the passengers on this crowded boat were Hungarians. Their costume is
peculiar. They are inveterate smokers, which was disagreeable.
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