Monday, April
23rd – Left Baalbak – crossed the plain of Bukkak and ascended
a portion of Mt. Lebanon until we came to Ain Ata, which is situated at
the base of the snowy part of the mountain. We start for the Cedars tomorrow.
Tuesday - April 24th – Started for the Cedars this morning at
five o’clock and arrived in 3½ ______, after a toilsome journey.
We rode up as far as the horses could walk. They carried us over two steep
places covered with snow. At the first, my horse fell on his breast. This,
however, did not cause me to fall. We had five men as guides and to assist
in taking care of the horses. When we rode over the snow, they took hold
of the halter and led the horses. As we approached the top we were obliged
to alight from our horse and walk. Our dragoman assisted me in going up
and down the steepest places. Soon after we reached the summit we had
a view of these renowned trees. One is always disappointed upon first
seeing them. They appear quite insignificant at so great a distance. We
were the first party of travelers that had passed this year, it being
earlier in the season than usual. In some places the snow was many feet
deep. There are about one hundred trees, seven or eight of which are nearly
forty feet in circumference. We were not surprised on a close examination
to find that they were more look pine than cedar. The wood smells like
cedar and is a light color – the leaves are more like the spruce
pine.
April 25th – Left Ain Ata this morning and had a very rough stony
ride over the ___ Lebanon range of Mountains until we reached the plains
of Bukkah. Here we rode all the afternoon until we came to Abla, our camping
ground. Before we reached this grassy spot we bought some very antique
coins from the neighborhood of Baalbak. Our tents are just outside the
village and men, women and children have come out to see us. We are gazed
upon as if we were members of a menagerie. After dinner tonight some Arab
women with several children asked permission to come to see us in our
tent. We gave it and about a half dozen come in and talked to us, but
of course we could not understand them. I was writing – at this
they expressed surprise.
April 26 – This had been a fatiguing day. We have ridden five
or six hours on the Beirut and Damascus road. It was built by the French
– is a splendid carriage road, but very tiresome for horse-back
riding, it being very hard.
April 27th – We have just arrived at Beirut after a most delightful
ride on the turnpike road from our last camping place. We left camp about
seven o’clock and rode around the terraced hills of Lebanon until
we arrived here. We saw numbers of vineyards; groves of Olives, orchards
of apricots, figs and mulberries. We took our last lunch in a grove of
pines like those they have in Spain, trimmed up close to the top. This
is done to get fire wood. It is from these trees that they got the nuts.
April 28th – Our dragoman gave us a banquet.
April 29th – Sunday – We have had a pleasant sojourn in
Beirut. Have met with some of the protestant missionaries. Last night
we were invited to spend the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Bliss to meet Messrs.
Tiffany and Chittenden from New York. We had a very pleasant evening.
They have several interesting children who sang sweetly for us. There
were 15 American Guests. We also met the American Consul. We heard a sermon
from Mr. Atterbury. The missionaries have a very neat church. Their work
is very encouraging. Among the congregation there were several natives,
some of whom were females. Just after we came out of church we saw five
or six beautiful young girls, who had white muslin veils gracefully thrown
over their heads. While standing there, we were introduced to the Rev.
Dr. Thompson, author of the Land and the Book. Adjoining the church is
the churchyard. There we saw the graves of some of the first missionaries
to Syria. Our room at the hotel looks out upon the sea, giving a fine
view of the harbor. From the house top we had a beautiful view of the
city and the Mts. of Lebanon. We left at five o’clock in company
with twelve Americans and went aboard of one of the Loyd and Austrian
mail steamers.
Soon after we started I was taken sick and had to go to bed without my
supper, being obliged to leave the table.
Monday – April 30th – At Cyprus walked through the bazaars.
Visited the Church of St. Lazarus and a Greek School. The next morning
found us at Rhodes, where the knights of St. John lived. We engaged a
boat and were rowed through the harbor over which the colossus stood.
We walked through the old part of the city, where the knights of St. John
lived. Saw their coats of arms and shields carved on marble tablets and
sat in the walls of their houses; also marble tablets of statues in the
old town walls and towers. We walked over the ruins of the Church of St.
John. We saw numbers of cannon balls lying around which were used in the
attack. We have had charming weather and after leaving Rhodes our passage
through the Isles of Greece was beautiful. We saw Patmos and Miletus as
a distance.