Monday –
Left Nazareth with a guard and traveled over mountains until we reached
Tiberias where we found our tents all pitched on the seacoast. We engaged
a boat to go down to the hot springs and while the men went after it we
gathered some very pretty shells. The lake appears entirely shut in by the
hills. Around its surface was as plain as possible, being only troubled
here and there by a duck or some fish. We were rowed by two Arabs a mile
down the lake from Tiberias, just below the site of the ancient city. We
went ashore to one of the springs which was almost hot and cooked an egg.
We could not hold our hands in the water a minute.
Tuesday – Left Tiberias in a boat and were rowed by four men up
the lake to the ruins of Chosaisin, Bethsaida, and Cafernaum. Those of
the first place are mere heaps of stones with a few columns here and there
covered with thistles and woods. At Bethsaida were several large ruins,
a mill through which a large stream of water was rushing out and several
lesser ones flowing into the lake. At Cafernaum there is nothing to mark
the site of the old city save a few dark mounds and dark looking stones
lying on the ground. These are so overgrown with thistles and weeds that
it is almost impossible to trace them. All along the shore and at the
sides of the water courses were oleanders growing most luxuriantly and
beautifully. From Cafernaum we went down to Magdala, the birthplace of
Mary Magdalene. From there we mounted our horses and ascended the Mountains
of Safed to the town of that name, where we now encamped.
Wednesday – April 10th – From Safed we went to Kodosh where
we saw some noble ruins supposed to be that of a Jewish temple; also some
large sarcophagi, some double, others single, richly carved, many large
columns and stones which were so covered with thistles and other weeds
that it was difficult to examine. From Kodosh to Mts. Eljehel and from
the latter place to Casearia Phillipi (now Banias). Here are the head
waters of the Jordan, fountains springing from every direction. It comes
from the base of the mountain until it forms a large body of water and
then dashes violently through ravine after ravine until it reaches Minet
Kady, a much larger fountain. This empties into Lake Merom and thus forms
the river Jordan. It is impossible to tell the extent of ruins we have
passed over today – first, those of the old city which were mere
heaps of stones and columns. Before we reached the city we rode over beds
of lava and through thickets of oleanders situated on one of the tributaries
of the Jordan and Bamias, like Safed, is built of stone but the roofs
of the houses present a singular appearances. They have an upper room
upon them constructed of the branches and leaves of trees. This is on
account of fleas and other insects being so pestiferous in summer. This
afternoon, we went up on the top of the mountain to see the old castle
of ________. It is partly of Saracenic and partly of Arabic architecture.
The stones are beveled. It has a commending situation. The noise of the
running water is very pleasant, almost reminding one of Niagara. It is
said to be a second Tivoli.
April 13th – At ______ we had an enchanting place for our tents.
The ground on which they were pitched was covered with the softest green
turf. Not a stone to be seen. Such a spot in this country is quite wonderful.
We crossed a beautiful stream on a substantial stone bridge, the view
from which was prepossessing to the weary traveler. On either side of
it were oleanders, maples, olives and a variety of undergrowth. Here we
had a visit from some Arab maidens who asked permission to come into our
tent to see us. We gave it and our dragoman told them to enter. They looked
at us and sailed apparently with admiration. Nora showed them the card
to visits of her family. The dragoman interpreting their relation to her.
As they took each one they kissed them and pressed them to their forehead.
They asked us for a needle which we gave them and then retired.