March 30th
– Left early this morning for the Dead Sea, Jordan and Jericho.
Passed Bethany and soon got into the Wilderness of Judea. The country
was now more barren. We even went up and down chalky mountains until we
reached the sea. These were some and the hills were green on the N. side.
When we came to a level with the sea we passed through a cane-brake. We
were surprised in finding any verdure near it. The water was washing upon
the shore, along which were branches of trees and canes. There our dragoman
gave us an excellent lunch, before which we bathed. After being thus refreshed
we mounted our horses and were soon in the plain of the Jordan which is
before Pisgah and the mountains of Moali. Here it was very hot; the plain
is very large. We soon came to the river where we drank and washed our
hands. Continuing up the valley of the Jordan we soon reached Jericho
and its lovely plain. Passing through the modern town we came to the site
of the old town which is situated near the brook Cherith or Fountain of
the Sultan as it is now called. On going up to its head waters we passed
through fields of red poppies nearly as far as the eye could reach, intermixed
with yellow, blue, white and purple flowers. Our dragoman guided us to
the left of this fountain where we found four tents pitched and a nice
dinner in readiness for our disposal, which consisted of five or six courses.
On the road going to the Jordan we met 4000 or
5000 pilgrims returning, some riding on camels, donkey and horses, but
the greater portion were walking, staff in hand, women on donkeys with
their children which they baptized in the river. This exempts then from
making the pilgrimage afterwards.
Sunday – Enjoyed communion in the English
Church. Among the communicants were several Arabs; also six Turks. The
eucharist was given to them in their own language. Mailed my 13th letter
home; also one to Julia Davis and one to Frances.
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