March 6th
– Left the Convent about eleven o’clock and have each day journeying
of the great Wilderness Tih. The first day it was over mountains; once or
twice we had to alight from our camels to climb them. Our sheik is a true
specimen of Arab character. A great deal of the country over which we passed
is chalk and flint. We went through a valley, walled on each side by a conglomerate
mass of limestones. We have passed through very little sand. We travel between
eight and nine hours a day; find it monotonous and are glad enough to get
to our tent toward the close of the day. I cannot get up the romance of
the author of Esther; the dislike of the tent; we are too anxious to end
our journey.
March 10 – Today we have been passing over plain after plain of
chalk, in some places looking like a flag stone pavement, so hard and
smooth that the foot of the camel made no impression. We have had no very
hot weather on the desert; the mornings are really cold. We have had rain
once or twice. At this place our dragoman became intoxicated; so much
so that he could not perform his duties. He said afterwards that it was
caused by drinking sour milk, a drink much used by the Arabs and said
to be the drink that Joel gave to Sisero. The Arab name for it is Leben.
March 10 – Sunday – Arrived at Nukhl between one and two.
The sheik of the place and a flock of men and children came out to meet
us, small children carrying others about one or two years of age across
their shoulders. The girls had bracelets on their wrists, while the babies
had them around their ankles. The women wear jewels around their necks,
wrists, in their ears and on each side of their veils, such is the fashion
of the Arabs. As soon as we reached here the gents went to see the Chief
Dignitary representing the Turkish Government; was received in Turkish
style, coffee and the Cabanche _________. He expressed himself in behalf
of the village as being much pleased to see us; assured us of protection
and provided us with a sheik and a fresh lot of camels, which are the
best and largest we have had. They have not been sheared for some time;
a few have very long hair. At five, three Dignitaries called upon us.
March 11 – Left Nukhl at 11 a.m. The scene of departure was very
amusing. After we had _______ and were seating ourselves on our camels,
our dragoman assaulted by a body of men we first thought for Backshish,
but it proved to be for washing put out by our waiter which was his business
to have done. The D. and gents would not pay it, so Solliman was called
upon to forfeit his pipe. The he would consent to but offered his watch
and chain and immediately burst into tears. Mr. M. finally paid the sum
and his jewels were restored. Notwithstanding our late start, we made
about six hours before camping.
March 13 – Have been traveling steadily all day. The animals we
have travel much faster than those we had, making it more fatiguing and
our saddles not being good. The Sheik and Arabs we now have are fiercer
looking than those we had formerly, but they seem good natured and travel
well. Their dress is very simple, a loose gown with a leather belt ornamented
with firearms and powder horns; their head gear a white cloth with a black
and white cord made of camels hair twisted around it; some of their camels
bridles are made of black hair of the animal. The head piece is a band
ornamented with tassels of the same and white seashells sewed on it. We
have several milch camels with their colts and tonight had some of their
milk for our tea. It is strong and quite salty. The water we have had
for the past week is slightly brackish, but is rendered palatable by being
made into lemonade and tea and coffee.
March 14th – Still slowly traveling in the Great Wilderness of Tih.
Encamped this evening at the bed of a river to get water which was obtained
by digging in the sand. The camels ran when they smelt it.