March 1 –
We have had our first experience today in riding on camels. I did not find
it as disagreeable as we anticipated. The weather was cool and cold toward
evening, a strong wind blowing all day. The camel gait is a steady walk.
They take very long steps. We are now in our tent. Have a good camping ground,
with plenty of brush for fuel and food for the animals. The mountains do
not look as beautiful upon a near approach as they do at a distance.
March 2nd – Wilderness of sin – Traveled on camels the first
part of the day after which we were obliged to dismount and climb over
rugged ravines and mountains until we obtained sight of Gebel Musa where
we sat down and waited for our camels to come up. While watching them
winding through the narrow defiles, it reminded me of pictures I had seen
of the Andes. We soon found a plain in which to camp. We had a fine view
of Mt. Serbal.
March 3rd – One more day’s travel and we have reached the
Convert of Mt. Sinai. The plain for some extent before the mountain was
very large and we supposed it to be the one before which the children
of Israel camped. The convent is situated in a narrow valley on the side
of Sinai. It has quite a nice garden in which we saw peach and almond
trees in full bloom. The convent was founded in 527, by the Emperor Justinian.
March 4 – Took a walk in the garden where we saw the fig trees
just budding, which is said to be an omen of spring. There were olive
trees and immense grape vines. After this we climbed Mt. Sinai and Mt.
Sufaafeh. This is a good days work. We did not start until eleven o’clock
and it was nearly dark before we reached the convent. There we had to
wait some fifteen minutes at the gate before we were admitted. I have
neglected to speak of our arrival. All travelers are obliged to have a
letter of recommendation from the Greek Patriarch. This was put between
two hooks and hauled up by a rope and upon being examined we were admitted
by the Holy Father or old priest. They give a room and bread and water
and a cup of coffee upon our first arrival. The bread is brown, very indifferent.
We took this with codfish as lunch when we ascended the mountain. The
ascent and descent is almost indescribable, over heaps upon heaps of red
granite, in many places looking as if they were placed there to form steps.
The ascent and decent of these mountains is far worse than Gibraltar.
It occupied two hours and five minutes to ascend Gebel Musa.
March 5th – Passed through the garden in center of which is a
low building, partly subterranean, which had been for ages the last resting
place of the Monks. Immediately after death the bodies are exposed in
one chamber and there remain until the flesh has wasted away; then the
skeleton is broken up and the bones conveyed to another chamber, where
multitudes are already ranged in two or three piles, first a pile of skulls
and then the remainder of the skeletons on a pile. There are first and
second classes, according to the dignity of the person. Mr. M. estimated
that there were from 20 to 25 cords of bones. The bones of the bishop
were put separately in boxes. We saw two skeletons of two brothers, chained
together, having died that way. One of the most important buildings in
the convent is the Church of the Transfiguration; the floor is mosaic
of granite and marble. Behind the altar the tomb of St. Catherine, made
of Gold and Silver, on the top of which is an enameled picture of the
saint; a jeweled crown of various precious stones was placed on her head,
presented by the Princesses of Russia. In the library we saw a beautiful
M.S. of the Gospels written on vellum, in double columns, in letters of
gold. It was given to the convent in the Eight Century by their Emperor
Theodosius; also copy of the Psalter, written in Greek by a female. It
is written on twelve pages in letters so small as to require a microscope
to read them. Nora and myself have a room in the convent, a monk’s
cell, large enough for our trunks and two beds. It is about ten ft. square.
There are four distinct parties here at present, one Frenchmen, a prince,
and Englishman, with his wife and daughters, our own party and one of
six Americans who arrived today.