Feb. 22nd
– Left Suez and after making a very slow sail we turned back some
distance and cast anchor for the night. Our tent was spread on the boat,
but we had rested only a few hours when we lost our anchor and came near
being wrecked. We were in quite a gale, being drifted about some time before
we could find a suitable place to cast another anchor. We felt very anxious
for some time and called upon Jesus like the disciples of old to save us.
The wind blew violently.
Feb. 23rd – Have been sailing rapidly all day, but no Tor yet,
this afternoon cast anchor and go ashore. Another night on this miserable
boat. The boat is very heavily laden with other freight besides our own.
Gathered shells from the shore of the Red Sea.
Feb. 24th – Have had a dead calm all day and it will be another
night on the boat. We are in the midst of coral reefs. We have just seen
quantities of beautiful sea weed, coral and sponges and fished, looking
like a rich carpet. We are now looking at a shoal of porpoise.
Feb. 25th – Set sail at ten o’clock last night, sailing
slowly until about nine this morning, when a breeze freshened, which though
in a wrong direction it helped along, until it became too strong for our
craft, so that we were obliged to return to our parlot in the coral reefs.
As soon as we were anchored we called for lunch, which upon furnishing,
we found that our supply of water was about to give out, being reduced
to half a cask, the men not having been as provident, thinking that we
would soon obtain a supply from Tor. Our situation is now critical, not
knowing how long we may be detained by gales or adverse winds. Yesterday
we were admiring the coral reefs. Now they are forming a breakwater for
us; first we feared being dashed against them – now we are lying
in the midst of them and the shore and remained two days before we were
able to sail in open sea, not having a fair wind. We told our Captain
that we were tired of staying in one place so long. He would not sail
at night when we had a good wind because he was afraid of the coral reefs,
although we had moonlight.
Feb. 27th – Last night we had quite a little rain and this morning
at five o’clock, with a fair wind, we set sail and are now near
Tor. The mountains of Arabia are beautiful, principally red with green
spots on them in many places. I have neglected to speak of the sport we
have had with our Captain. He said last evening if he did not bring us
to Tor today by 12 o’clock, we might take his head off, so Mr. M.
told him that he would have the hatchet sharpened for the operation. We
have slept five nights in an open boat, one night with no tent over us.
Have not taken the least cold and have not suffered from sea sickness.
The peaks of the mountains are very sharp in some places. Some of them
are covered with sand lying in ravines from the top and until it reaches
the base, where is forms the sea beach.
Feb 28th – Tor – have just arrived, wind blowing very violently.
Had a delightful sail. Some of the waves before which we were driven would
leave a great trough; they would seem twenty or thirty feet high. Our
arrival caused a great excitement at the village, every man, woman and
child coming out to meet us, trying to help is unload in every way possible.
We have at last slept and taken our dinner in a tent. Nora and myself
had our beds put up on one side, behind a curtain, while the gentlemen
slept on the other. There are five sheiks here. They formed quite a picture
sitting around the tent with their long pipes and swords in their hands,
we form a source of amusement to the children. They have bought a number
of pretty shells and coral for sale. We have seen large beds of illuminated
coral, large round pieces of branched coral, mushroom and other varieties.
We find our Dragoman of little account except as an interpreter; he does
not understand well what is said to him and appears to have little influence
with the Arabs. We have just found that our waiter has been sent for by
an official order from the Arab government, from Cairo, it appearing that
he has closed his store and come off with us. Variety is the spice of
life. We have had another charming walk on the Red Sea today. Found some
red coral for the first time. Saw a wall built of coral. I took my first
sea bath today. The mountains back of Tor are beautiful, far superior
to those of Spain. The purple tints and dreamlike haze are supremely artistic.
They lie peak upon peak, shading each other. There are several little
groves of palms, which remind us of what we have read of an oasis in the
desert. Tonight have just had some specimens of Arab agility, which was
not very remarkable. They wondered at the opera glass, looked through
both ends.