Monday, Feb. 12th – Left for Memphis, a short distance up the Nile. There we saw the colossal statue of Rameses, all the remains of the city of the Pharaohs. We took donkeys and rode to the Pyramids of Sukkra, which do not compare with those of Gezzah. From there we went to Dashoor. After we started the donkey boys refused to go so far in one day; said it would kill their donkeys, it was too far, etc. finally wanted more pay. We soon conquered them and in a few hours were at the foot of the Pyramids. The outside of these facings are in better preservation than any of the others. On our way to them we went into the catacombs of the sacred Bulls; saw twenty-four sarcophagi, with their massive coverings, all of polished granite. We saw an Egyptian temple which has been recently opened, where the hieroglyphics appeared as fresh as the day they were carved. They described the manners of the people, their manner of slaying their bulls, etc. On our way there we passed forests of the date palms, which look beautiful at a distance. We saw an unfinished pyramid; also a brick one built with bricks made of straw. On our return we dropped down the river and stayed all night near the quarries where the Egyptians get the stones for the pyramids. Wood is very scarce in Egypt.
Feb. 15th – Rode out to see catacombs, but were disappointed. However, we saw an old Coptic said to have been built 300 B.C.
Feb. 20th – Went this morning to the Museum where we saw several large sarcophagi covered with hieroglyphics; also a number of sphinxes, Egyptian statues, a painters stand with cups, etc. While riding I saw a little girl with a basket on her head picking up the droppings of donkeys and horses. This they dry; being formed in round cakes, the women use it as fuel for cooking. We see the women with great loads of it on their heads. We have had on an average of three or four oranges every day since we left home and pears in France and in Egypt. Here they get them from Greece, also apples.
Feb. 18th – Went to the English Church this morning and at half past two to the American Mission where we heard an elegant sermon from Mr. Washburn of Constantinople.
Feb. 19th – Leave for Suez this morning and have arrived this afternoon, a small place, a few Arab houses and bazaars, several English houses and a very good hotel fronting the sea. Walked along the sea shore and picked up some beautiful shells.
Feb. 20th – Engaged a sail boat and went some distance down the Gulf; gathered near the Arabian shore some beautiful sea weed and shells. The Captain of our boat an interesting specimen of Arab character, said he would like to go to America as a gentlemen and get married. Walked over an ancient burying ground; saw where the poor were buried in pits, one above another. These were rafted and covered with matting, upon which was a layer of stones and plaster. We then “living among the tombs” one or two dwellings, with persons in them. Our hotel was once the Pasha’s palace.
