| Feb. 8th –
Left at half past nine for the pyramids, a distance of ten miles, first
through the city and bazaars; then took a boat across the river, first through
the city and bazaars; then took a boat across the river, the engaging of
its amusing, Arabs, opinion of English and American being rich. Road to
the pyramids on either side being very pretty, adobe villages, mustard and
clover fields and a large grove of date trees. In the villages each hut
is a kind of happy family, men, women and children, horses, donkeys, pigeons
and chickens. We saw a flock of ibis which are represented as one of the
hieroglyphics of the Egyptians. They are a pure white and were held sacred
by these people. Just before we reached the hill on which the pyramids are
situated, we passes through a village where we were met by a dozen or two
of the men who were to assist us in making the ascent. They were very importunate
for us to engage them, representing their good qualities. The approach was
very fine. We went up a high hill before we reached the base, from which
to look up; its rugged height was almost enough to deter one from making
the ascent. I summoned courage and with the assistance of one or two Arabs
ascended and descended very rapidly. When we reached the top we had a magnificent
panorama of the whole country around. Saw the site of the battle of the
Pyramids. After dating a letter and writing a sentence to those at home,
went half way down and entered the interior, where after a series of climbing
and sliding up and down inclined planes we arrived at a large chamber built
of granite, where was a large sarcophagus. As we were coming out the guides
were very importunate for buckshish and so continued when we reached the
ground and on our way to the sphinx. They had old coins and old Egyptian
images for sale. The outside of Cheops is built of limestone, inlaying one
above another, forming steps. Those were formerly covered by granite so
as to make the sides perfectly even. This has been removed for buildings
in Cairo. The entrance to the Pyramid is very small. We were disappointed
in our first view of the sphinx, it appearing from a distance like a man
with head peeping out of the sand. One must go right up before it to realize
its height and magnitude. Its nose is certainly broken flat. On our way
returning, we went to see where they hatched eggs in ovens, a dirty place;
thence to the Nileometer, which is used in the time of the inundation to
take the height the Nile rises. It is seen on Roda Island where Moses was
said to be hid.
Feb. 9th – First sent to see the American Missionaries; thence
to the petrified forest, where we obtained some fine specimens; afterwards
to the College of Derwishes, but did not see their performances, as they
do not dance during their Ramichan fast. On the road to the forest we
saw white lizards, snails, grasshoppers & flies. Wondering how they
subsisted. The sand and gravel over which we passed was so hard that the
donkeys feet made a slight impression. From there we visited the Mosques
of Tayloonand that of Sultan Hassan, the oldest ones here. Then passing
through the bazaars. Met a number of persons driving, they not seeming
to mind the dust.
Feb 10th – Visited the gardens and palace of Shooba, which belongs
to the Pasha. This is a ride of about four miles from Cairo, through a
shady avenue of trees; this avenue which has been planted forty or fifty
years, is formed almost entirely of the Acacia Lebbekh, which last has
not only the recommendation of rapid growth, but of great beauty, particularly
when in blossom. This palace is situated on the banks of the Nile. The
gardens though formal are pretty. There is no great variety of flowers;
roses, geraniums and a few other kinds are the most abundant. The great
fountain is the lion of the garden. This consists of an immense marble
basin, containing water, about four feet deep. There were about forty
or fifty ducks swimming around it. On the grounds we saw some sheep, a
few gazelles, an ostrich and an elephant. We were not permitted to enter
the harem, though an attempt was made. One of the attendants told us that
visitors were not admitted while the ladies were living there.
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