|Jan. 7th –
We are now again in Cadiz, having returned last night. This afternoon we
walked out to the Plaza de Mira and to the Alameda. This is a charming walk
provided with trees, benches, fountains and statues. Every Spanish town
has its Public Walk and this afternoon it seemed particularly beautiful,
as it was a bright afternoon. The ladies and gentlemen and children were
all out in full dress and some with their linseed carriages; after they
were tired of walking, they went forth in carriages. We saw a great number
with fancy bonnets, which seemed to make ours less noticeable. A number
of ladies and children wore velvet wrappings. Their dresses were principally
light silks. The walking dress of most of the ladies is black with mantillas.
They all walk well.
Jan. 10th – Embarked on the steamer Shuelba for Gibraltar, a lovely morning, a Spanish steamer. Expect to reach our destination by the afternoon. We have a miserable cabin and to all appearances poor accommodations; fare three dollars each, an enormous price for seven or eight hours travel. Arrived at three o’clock. After obtaining rooms we walked around the town and ascended above the tops of the houses on the Rock. The country from Cadiz to this place consists of high rocky hills with sloping fields and some beautiful valleys. The hills and mountains are all rock. Upon many are Moorish Signal towers, each within sight of the other.
Jan. 11th – Leave for Tangier after riding around the city. Have
taken the ride but are in doubt about a vessel, as the weather is foreboding.
We have just seen a funeral procession, with a train of boys and priests
before, fourteen carriages, the drivers of which were dressed in black,
gloves, black cambric sashes on their hats and shoulders.
Jan. 13th – This morning we went to the Neutral ground to witness a British review, but were disappointed, as it did not take place. From there we walked along the sea shore and have gathered a number of pretty shells. We came home tired and hungry and quite ready for the good dinner of our host. We have game of some kind every day.
Jan. 14th – Left on a Spanish steamer for Malaga. Arrived at three o’clock. Went to the Custom House where all ladies were searched but ourselves for tobacco, etc. After remaining here a day we took a diligence and went to Granada to see the Alhambra. Stayed at the Hotel Ortiz on the Alameda of the Alhambra. The building baffles all my descriptive powers. The Hall of the Ambassadors is grand. It is 75ft. in height. We saw the bathing place of the Moorish queens. It is now a large basin of water with gold fish playing in it; all around was a hedge of Myrtle, whom which it took its name, it having been destroyed, is now replaced by a hedge of Bay. On either side of this court is a marble colonnade consisting of 142 columns. The azuolozoo (probably azzulijas) stuccoed walls and ceiling are magnificent. From an exterior view of the Alhambra one would never suppose from its somber fortress like appearance of the grandeur within. In the Cathedral of Granada are the sepulchers of Ferdinand and Isabella and their daughter Jane the Crazy and Philip the handsome, her husband. They are magnificently wrought in alabaster with their figures extended on them in marble. We then went to the Catherian Convent, where we saw some large paintings of the English Catherian Monks who were martyred by Henry the VIII. Then we went into the chapel which is the handsomest we have yet seen. The doors and chests of cedar drawers in the chapel and sacristy were inlaid with ivory, ebony, tortoiseshell, pearl set in silver. The floors, stairs, and all around the sides of the wall were of the richest marble. In a private garden we saw cypress trained and trimmed in the most fantastical shapes. From one view they looked like miniature chapels. Then we saw several curious birds, among which was a perfectly white peacock. We visited the Palace of the Generalife, which belonged to the Moors. The cypress walk and the gardens are lovely and the fountains which you find at every turn are quite fairylike. They are supplied with water from the sources of the Zenil and Xare rivers. In every direction through the city and in nearly all the gardens they have fountains.