Jan. 5th
– Left this morning at seven o’clock for Seville, where we
arrived at half past twelve. The country for about twenty-five miles is
flat and marsh. It appears to be laid off in rows of earth on either side
of which are ditches full of water. All over this country are pyramids
of white sand, which perhaps came out of these ditches; there were many
of them 30 or 40 feet in height. The landscape view was beautiful, first
a sloping field covered as if with a green carpet; then a dark one just
planted; then a hill or two in the distance, these continued, were lovely.
In many places we saw flocks and droves of cattle, all with their shepherds
and keepers, steers, sheep, hogs, and goats. Now we come to the fields
of vineyards, all cut down close to the ground, leaving a few runners
here and there. This is a fertile and great wine growing country, all
in and around Xeres, you seem to find nothing but vines and wine. They
pay particular attention to sherry wine. All through Andaluvia they have
fine hunting grounds, to which we can testify, as we saw quantities of
game. They are great sportsmen. Now we come to the olive and orange orchards
and pine forests. The olives have been gathered and the trees look many
of them very old and ragged. They are very careful of the culture of the
young trees. We saw a number shaped all the body around with clay, only
allowing the top of the tree to be seen. Their foliage is now very tall
and ugly. The orange groves are beautiful and are now full of the golden
fruit. The pines are wonderful, growing up many feet without a single
branch, until within about twenty or twenty-five feet from the top where
they branch out and look almost flat and sometimes round on top. We are
at the Hotel Londres, a very good house, where they speak French and English.
We found a valet-de-place as soon as we arrived who spoke English and
went out sight seeing. We first visited the Aleazar, the royal residence,
Acasar, the house of Caesar, occupies the site of that of the Roman Creator.
It was rebuilt in the 10th and 11th centuries for a Moorish Prince. All
of the rooms are perfectly magnificent, beyond anything I ever dreamed
of. The grand Patio or court is superb, 70 ft. by 54. It looks like fine
lace work. It was Moorish throughout until it was altered by the caprices
of Kings and Queens. The hall of the Ambassadors has a glorious half orange
roof. Here the grand Royal reception took place. We saw the room in which
and the stone on which Don Pedro had his brother murdered, who was visiting
him in order to get his jewels. We then went to the Cathedral which is
one of the largest in Spain. It has nine entrances, two large organs.
Here is the Royal chapel where the Queen worships. It is here that St.
Ferdinand is buried. We saw his tomb which was magnificent. It had gold
ornaments of the last Moorish King surrendering the keys of Seville to
St. Ferdinand. We also saw his crown and his wife’s jewels, all
brilliants covering the whole breast of the Virgin who wore them. She
was dressed in a beautiful white silk dress trimmed with gold and had
the infant Savior all dressed. He had silver shoes on his feet and a figure
of brilliants in his hand. She was sitting on the identical throne of
St. Ferdinand. In the center of this Cathedral is the tomb of the son
of Columbus. There is a slab over it with an inscription and on either
side, carved also in marble are the two quaint ships in which Columbus
crossed the ocean to America. They had sails and eighteen oars on each
side. Columbus is buried in Havana. Over this grave stone, during Holy
Week the host is deposited in an enormous wooden temple in the form of
a Greek cross. In the Cathedral an image of the Madonna and Child which
St. Ferdinand carried with him in battle.
I have neglected to speak of the gardens of Aleazar.
It was there we saw orange trees, trimmed in perfection up as high as
the wall, with no fruit on them, as they are not allowed to bear; it would
spoil their shape, but all through the garden were fine orange and lemon
trees. One we saw was 500 years’ old. Mr. M. pulled a fine orange
from it. They have the sweet lemon here, which is the first I were saw.
The peel is in every respect like our lemon, but inside it is almost as
sweet as an orange. We saw a large banana tree with several bunched of
fruit hanging from it. There are several curious fountains shooting out
of the paved walk with which Philip the V used to frighten the ladies
of his court. Indeed, we had to run to get out of the way. There are several
labyrinths and also the Spanish Court of arms planted in box bushes. We
saw the tank out of which Philip the V fished.
I have neglected to speak of the bells of the Giralda
in the tower of the Cathedral; they are twenty-five in number and have
been baptized and named after the saints. The largest is named Santa Maria.
We witnessed the bell ringing, which to a novice is quite a science. They
have a blind man as Musical Director who would call out the bells as they
were to be rung. Several men and about six or eight boys did the ringing.
We ascended the tower by an easy ascent. To our surprise we had no steps
to mount. In the Cathedral I saw a Cardinal and a Canon for the first
time. We walked a great deal in Seville. One night we got lost, as the
streets are more irregular than those of Boston. We found some difficulty
to get back to the Plaza, which is in front of our Hotel. It is a pretty
square with three rows of orange trees around it, with iron settees under
them. Here the ladies and gentlemen promenade. The ladies walk well, are
healthy specimens, but few are pretty.
Yesterday morning, Jan 6th, we walked down to see
the bridge across the Guadalquivir; also saw the Moorish or Golden tower,
so called because Columbus was said to land the gold from the new world
there. Large vessels from London and Havre come up this river. Just after
seeing this we passed through the public garden opposite the Duke of Ironpersions
house, where in his private garden he has 25,000 orange trees. We saw
the house where the Barber of Seville lived; the shop where shaved and
where he sold perfumery. We went through the house of the Duke of Medira,
Coli, which is a copy of Pilate’s house in Jerusalem. It was built
in 1533, FadrigueEnriguez de Rihera, in commemoration of his having performed
the pilgrimage to Jerusalem in 1519. We saw the Judgment Hall and Pilate’s
room. There was a marble table said to be the one where Judas made the
bargain for Christ and in the middle of the room the fount where he washed
his hands. Going up stairs we saw the room where Christ was imprisoned;
the place where there was a fire where Peter warmed his hands and where
the cock stood when he crew. When we went out we saw the balcony where
Pilate called out to the people to which prisoner he must release onto
them. We saw the entrances of several marquises houses, where they had
fine gardens. We saw the largest tobacco factory in the world, where they
have 4000 employees, and no cholera in them.
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