’66 – Having wished all a happy New Year, we took breakfast
and went upon deck where we found the sails all set and that we were rapidly
approaching Cape St. Vincent. We have seen several sea gulls and now can
see the light house and the land and hope tomorrow morning to be safely
landed in the harbor of Cadiz.
Jan. 2nd – Vain was the hope of yesterday. We awoke this morning
and found that we were still some distance from Cadiz and soon after such
a heavy fog arose that the vessel stopped altogether, and we did not cast
anchor until about half past twelve, when we did not get to the hotel
until nearly three o’clock, as we had to depend on the Spanish boats.
It was a busy scene to watch from the sides of the vessel the eagerness
of the boatmen to get passengers and the passengers and baggage going
down to the boat. We finally took one and were rowed to the shore, which
I suppose was more than a mile. We are now at the Hotel de Londree, where
we have two very good rooms, two meals a day which are also satisfactory.
Our greatest trouble is that none of the servants speak English. We make
ourselves understood in French and there are three gentlemen at the table
who speak English. We are agreeably disappointed with Cadiz. It is a very
clean city, with very narrow streets, the sidewalks wide enough for one
person to walk. Some of the streets are so narrow that four or five abreast
would fill the street and sidewalk. In some streets it is impossible for
vehicles to pass each other. All the houses are white, generally four
stories in height; all have a double window and a balcony looking out
upon the street. They have courts in the rear of the house as in Havana.
Everyone appears to sweep the dirt to the middle of the street where it
is taken up by men and put in carts or in the panniers carried by donkeys.
They seem to have very good sewerage here. All around the city is a high
wall, on which is a promenade, where we have a full view of the sea. We
have walked upon it several times and met several ladies and gentlemen.
I suppose it must be a great resort in summer. The ladies here are much
handsomer than in Havana; the gentlemen far more manly in bearing. They
do not stare at you nearly so much. This being a colder climate in winter
than Havana, everybody nearly is obliged to walk, so that they have rosy
complexions and look much stronger. These who are wealthy enough to own
carriages you will see riding on fete and visiting days, with liveried
coach and footmen. Cadiz is a painfully quiet city, with the exception
of street vendors, the bells of the mules and a carriage or two, you hear
little or no noise. The first morning we went to market, where we saw
sweet and Irish potatoes, lettuce, onions, radishes, peas, cauliflower,
cabbage, peppers, celery, pie plant or rhubarb, cuttle fish, fish _____,
the first I ever saw game, kids, rabbits, fish, bladders of lard, orange
color and white, a small quantity of which you will see sold in a paper.
Kids seem to be much thought of and goats’ milk is used altogether.
They have very fat pork in the markets.
Yesterday we went to the Cathedral, which is beyond
description. It is the finest and largest one I ever saw, the floors,
altars, columns, ceilings, steps, indeed, everything is made of marble,
in the construction of which it can be used. There are two organs, facing
each other, about fifty feet apart, one of which we heard play. Each of
them had perpendicular and horizontal pipes. It certainly must be very
imposing to hear a choir full enough to require two organs to accompany
it. Last night we walked almost entirely around the city, on the wall.
It was clear moonlight and many times we looked out upon the sea, listened
to its roar and watched the surf breaking against the wall. We got lost
and it was some time before we found our way back to the hotel.
Jan. 4th – This morning we tool a carriage and drove all along
the wall, by the Gov. Gen’l. Palace and garden, the barracks; out
to the Campo Santo, which is like the one in Havana. We saw the country
around Cadiz on donkeys, trains loaded for market, the vegetable garden,
etc. all along the sides and divisions of gardens; they have the cactus
and century plants, used hodges. We also saw canary seed growing which
had the appearance of brown corn. We were accompanied by a valet-de-place
who took us to an asylum for orphans and the aged and infirm. They all
were well clothed and had nice food to eat; the girls were engaged in
knitting, sewing and embroidering, some of which was particularly fine.
The little boys were in school, while the older ones were engaged in learning
trades. It is a self supporting institution in a degree; they spin and
weave the cloth of which they make their articles of dress. We saw shoemakers,
tailors, carpenters, mixing painters, etc. There was a nice garden in
one of the courts. The kitchen and everything were in good order. We then
visited a medical college where we saw an anatomical museum and a dissecting
room. This is the Tarafish of Scripture.